If you’ve been riding for even a short time, you know that the mechanical state of your bike can make the difference between a great ride and a chain-sucking, ghost-shifting curse-fest. Learning how to fix your bike quickly and properly is a key mountain biking skill, and lets you maximize your time on the trail while minimizing your time at the repair shop.

That’s where Mel Allwood’s book Mountain Bike Maintenance: The Illustrated Manual comes in. Mountain Bike Maintenance is a guide to nearly all aspects of bike repair, from trail-side emergency repairs to Sunday afternoon overhauls. The presentation of the material is top-notch, with lots of clear, well laid out pictures for every step of the repairs accompanied by concise, well written instructions. Allwood does a great job of simplifying even complex procedures like brake bleeding and wheel building, and is able to instill the reader with the confidence to tackle these jobs on his own.

What is particularly nice about Mountain Bike Maintenance is the way that Allwood lays the foundation for building your knowledge and repair skills before steering you towards the more difficult jobs. The book begins with a great introduction to the tools you will need, looking at what you should stuff in your pack for a ride, what you should keep in stock for routine repairs, and which specialty tools you’ll need for tackling occasional bigger jobs. The book then delves into excellent coverage of most basic repairs, such as fixing a broken chain or twisted link, managing a broken gear cable, or of course, repairing a puncture.

Also noteworthy are the troubleshooting pages included at the end of each section, enabling you to quickly link your bike’s symptoms to their causes and solutions. Poor shifting in the larger sprockets, for example, could be the cause of either poor chainline or a bent derailleur hanger, and the book provides nice ways to solve both of these problems.

It’s hard to find any real shortcomings in Mountain Bike Maintenance. While it is true that there are alternative (and free) sources of great information on bike repair, such as Park Tool’s website, the presentation of the information in Allwood’s book tends to be better than online resources. Also, one of the inherent drawbacks of a mountain bike repair book is that it is impossible to keep up with the bleeding-edge technology, and therefore new developments like external bottom brackets aren’t covered in Mountain Bike Maintenance. However, the book is still impressively current, and finding a repair that is missing coverage is a rare occurrence.

Overall, then, Mountain Bike Maintenance gets a hearty endorsement. Its clear, straightforward presentation of an impressive array of repairs mean that this will quickly become your Bible for tackling new projects. It’s available online at the big retailers, but call around at your local bike shops and see if you can pick it up from one of them.

Title: Mountain Bike Maintenance: The Illustrated Manual
Author: Mel Allwood
Publisher: Firefly Books
Copyright: 2004, Carlton Publishing Ltd.
Length: 256 pages

It’s no small secret that there’s never a better time to enjoy a cold beer than after a day of riding, and there’s also no better way to impress your friends than by using something bike-related to crack open that beer (assuming your friends are easily impressed, of course). There have been a number of clever companies which have addressed this pressing need, with the bottle opener built into the dropout of the Santa Cruz Heckler as well as the Park Tool bottle opener serving as great examples.

But the guys at Blue Collar Mountain Biking took a different and even more resourceful approach in their quest to create the coolest bottle opener, with the result being the transformation of a worn out cassette into a mountain biking accessory of the highest level. If you’re willing to spend a couple of minutes with a grinder and a vice, you can turn your cassette into a conversation starter complete with a used-chain handle. Very clever.

Be sure to check out the full (and seemingly pretty simple) instructions here.

Here’s the deal: we’ve all heard about how important bike fit really is. Magazines go on about the ideal riding position, and bike shops boast about their fancy new bike fitting equipment, which often has its own special spot in the corner of the store. Despite this, the extent to which most riders actually undertake proper bike fit is eyeballing the right seatpost height, and hitting the trail. Whether this is out of not knowing where to start, not caring, or not having ridden a properly fit and adjusted bike, the unfortunate reality is that most riders could be riding more comfortably and efficiently with a few tweaks to their riding position.

A word of caution before using this guide: this shouldn’t come as a big surprise, but bike fit is a pretty personal thing. Different people have different body types, and the same fit suggestions may not work for everybody. This guide is meant to give a solid foundation which will work for most riders, but there is no ‘perfect fit’ which will work for everybody. Try these suggestions out, pay attention to how you feel after making the changes, and feel free to make incremental changes as needed.

Preparation: What you’ll need

• A level
• A tape measure
• A hardcover book
• A pencil
• A calculator
• A string with a weight on the end (a plum line)
• A beer (for celebration of a job well done)

Step One: Get your saddle level

This is the easiest change to make, and can have the biggest impact on your pedaling power. If you’re riding with your seat too low, your legs aren’t getting full extension, and that means that you’re not getting as much power to the pedals as you could. On the flip side, if your seat is too high, you’ll be rocking your hips on the saddle, overextending your knees, and stretching with your ankles, all of which can lead to discomfort.

In order to set the saddle to the correct height, you need to first set the angle of the saddle itself. Using a level (or at very least some careful eyeballing), loosen off the bolts on your seatpost clamp, adjust the saddle to a level position, and re-tighten the clamp. Some seatpost clamps have notches, and some are infinitely adjustable, so just try to get the saddle as level as your style of clamp will allow.

Step Two: Find your ideal seat height 

Now that your saddle is level, the next step is to find out what your ideal saddle height is. For this, get your riding shoes on, and stand with your back to the wall, feet together, and heels touching the wall. Then, put the hardcover book between your legs and square against the wall, and slide it up as high as it will go. Mark the top of the book on the wall with the pencil, and then measure the height from the mark to the floor. Multiply the height you end up with by 0.88, and the result is the correct seat height, measured from the centre of your bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Set your seat height accordingly, and it’s not a bad idea to put a small mark on your seatpost so you can quickly find the correct height in the future.

Step Three: The fore/aft position 

There’s just one step left to get your saddle in the perfect spot: determining the ideal fore/aft position. Still in your riding shoes, get on the bike and put both feet on the pedals, with the cranks parallel to the ground (it’s helpful to lean against a wall while doing this). Now, dangle the plum line while holding the string from the depression just below the knee cap of your forward leg. Look at where the string falls compared to the pedal axle. If the string falls in front of the axle, move your saddle back in the rails until the string lines up with the axle. Similarly, if the string is falling behind the axle, slide your saddle forwards until it is in line with the axle.

Step Four: Ride, enjoy 

That’s it! Your saddle is set up in the right spot, and your bike is fitting you a world better already. Now get out and ride, pay attention to how it feels, and tweak using small adjustments until you’re feeling great about your bike fit.